ML147616
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Subject: (Interview). Subtitle: David Breashears. Timecode In: 00:00:04. Timecode out: 00:19:46. Notes: Commentary; David Breashears commentary; Mt. Everest. Equipment Notes: Stereo=1; Dual-Channel Mono. NPR/NGS RADIO EXPEDITIONS Show: David Breashears --Everest Log of DAT #: 6 Engineer: Breashears Date: April 18, 2001 ng= not good ok= okay g = good vg = very good 2:15 I can see the NE face of Kwangde a mountain a little under 20,000, a little bit away is Omnabalan. And it reminds me of two of my formative experience in the Himalayas which for me is that the journey to the top of Everest was about learning a craft, apprenticeship, and learning self-reliance. And how the value in that summit, the summit of Everest was in the hard work and hard won experience that went into making that climb possible for me. 3:30 My climb in Omnabalan in 1979 showed me that I could climb at high altitudes at least 22,500 ft and I felt I was well suited for that type of activity. My body didn't rebel against me up there, I felt very comfortable the higher I went, but it wasn't a challenging climb technically. Wee fixed ropes, they were always there as a handling and I didn't get to lead, to be as we call it a sharp end of the rope. And leading is what brings the greatest risks and the greatest rewards. So I came back here in the winter of 1982 -1983 to pioneer a new route up the NE face of Kuangde it was a very steep root almost a vertical mile in length with hardly an area to stand on in the entire length. Thankfully, my companion was Jeff Low a very comp experienced and talented mountaineer. The great thrill and challenge to that route was that we did not used fixed ropes or fixed camps and when we started up that big icy, cold, and dark wall, we didn't know what that outcome would be. And not knowing what that outcome would be was what made that challenge more thrilling and more rewarding. 6:37 The route faces to NE so we didn't have any sun for 5 days which made the route very cold and there was no place to erect, no matter how much chopping with our ice axes we did, so we traveled w/o a tent. So we spent nights on the face suspended from it in hammocks. And turning yr shoulder and peering out hammock 4000 feet from ground is expo one never forgets. 7:38 We knew we would not find a ledge large enough to erect a tent, so we didn't bring a tent. Instead, we spent our nights suspended from face from the rock and ice in a hammock and I can tell you that turning your shoulder and looking 400 ft straight down to the ground is an expo one never forgets. When we finally ... 8:29 There was extremely difficult climbing on the route even by today's standards. In fact the route has never been repeated but it was a joy and a privilege to get out of hammocks every day and tackle a new stretch of rock or ice where no human hand or foot had ever gone before. Every day and some nights before sunset I could look across the Kombu 20 miles to the north and see Everest calling out to me maybe not but there it was the highest point on the world's highest skyline 9:48. 9:55 and when we emerge from the shadows of that face and climbed onto the shadows of Kuangde after having set out I new I was ready for Everest. I was certain I had the physical strength the stamina, the technical skill and most of all the confidence to climb in to that thin unforgiving air in a safe and self-reliant manner. By then I'd been climbing more than ten years, all my climbing mentors and I had followed the path of the apprentice I had done everything I could to learn my craft well and that was the path that was encouraged for me to by all my climbing mentors. The people who taught me climbing felt that one took a series of logical steps to become a good climber. Rock climbing on short routes, rock climbing on longer roots, wall climbing, ice climbing, ice and ro... (Notes truncated)
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- 4 Nov 2009 - David McCartt
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- 4 Nov 2009 - David McCartt
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- 4 Nov 2009 - David McCartt