ML148413
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Subject 1: (Interview). Subtitle: David Breashears. Timecode In: 00:00:09. Timecode out: 01:19:25. Notes: Commentary; Ice climbing. Subject 2: (Sound Effects). Subtitle: Ice climbing. Timecode In: 00:28:00. Timecode out: 01:19:25. Equipment Notes: Stereo=1; Spaced Omni Stereo; DPA 4060 Omnidirectional Microphones. NPR/NGS RADIO EXPEDITIONS Show: Mt. Washington DAT A-2 Reporter: Alex Chadwick Engineer: Flawn Williams February 10, 2000 Logged by Van VG-very good G-good OK-okay NG-no good Rick Wilcox (RW) David Breashears (DB) THIS LOG CORRESPONDS WITH THE C-2 LOG, RICK WILCOX'S BACKPACK TAPE 41:57 (CORRESPONDS WITH 1:26:33 ON DAT C-2) I'M LOGGING ONLY WHAT'S UNINTELLIGIBLE OR NOT PRESENT ON THE OTHER TAPE 42:30 DB: not have to worry about really awful weather, every time the clients go out, are they frozen, are the still alive? 42:50 DB: well I'm racking up again ... getting ready for the next pitch .. .looking up a little slot here in the Pinnacle buttress called pinnacle gully. And we've just finished 165 feet of ice. 44: 13 DB: I really don't like climbing with a pack and a helmet, cuz every time you look up you're jammed. 45:09 DB: so I'm just above rick here, a very pleasant little bit of ice. Typical problem early...you're either new to the season or new to the sport, is to bash you tools in about 20 times harder than is necessary...bash your knuckles, and not get ...just get yourself tired: 46:01 DB: just climbed over a little bulge, and now I'm on easier terrain, getting up a little bit steeper here, kinda messy right here, messy but the ice is nice, as they say, and will suffice. 46:40 DB: little bulge I'm on now, which is nice, make a mistake of not leaning in too far, cuz then you cant see anything, and it's a very awkward position. Stopping here... hey Rick? 47:13 (about 1:30:00 on DAT C-2) DB: In about 15 feet there's a nice place, OK? 47:26 DB: Great. So I'm about 80 feet above the belay, Rick's encouraging me to put in an ice screw, which I shall, because you can fall over 170 feet at the moment. But it's so unlikely... Ice on the left! 47:56 - FX: ICE FALLING 48:15 DB: It was a leftover dinner plate that I didn't see. OK, stopping for an ice screw, right here. 47:27 FX: CHOPPING 48:51 DB: If I run out of rope I'll put in a screw and I could keep climbing, whatever you want. I'll belay ... puttin in a screw here, FX: ICE SCREW GOING IN 49:23 DB: I'm clipping in the carabiner ... now I'm clipping in the rope 49:38 DB: I'm into a very nice ice screw AMBI: CLIMBING, BREATHING, ICE CRYSTALS FALLING, CHOPPING, CLINKING VG 51:44 DB: ok now I'm on to some easier terrain here, back into some snow on ice, that was a nice bulge there ... beautiful climbing up here ... 52:23 DB: Hey rick? (RW in bg) I can put a screw in here ... 52:50 DB: Hey rick? How much rope? (RW in bg) OK 53:21 FX: CLINKING, ICE SCREW VG 54:03 DB: I'm putting in a screw here, at the belay. It's very nice...a little bit....the ice is hard here. This is a tough ...guy to go in here. I'm gonna have to tap in with the hammer, which I don't wanta do. A time consuming way to place an ice screw ......And it's almost in. TAPPING AND CLINKING THROUGH THIS SECTION VG 55:34 DB: Now I'm going to ... the screw is in, and I'm going to tie into it and I'm ready for Rick. Rick? I'm off! That's a really quick way, in a gully here where maybe he can't hear me, of letting him know I'm off belay. That means be doesn't have to belay me anymore, I'm anchored up here, that if... and that's good, because then he can undo the ice screw and not have to pay attention to holding the rope for me, and then if I'm ready to climb, and when he's ready, I'm ready. I've got a good solid ice screw, and I.... a lot more, it's just not necessary. A good stance here, v... (Notes truncated)
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- 24 Dec 2009 - Ben Brotman
- Digitized
- 23 Dec 2009 - Ben Brotman
- Edited
- 24 Dec 2009 - Ben Brotman