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NPR/NGS Radio Expeditions
5 Nov 2003

    Geography
  • India
    Uttar Pradesh
    Locality
  • Vrindavan
    Latitude/Longitude
  • 27.58389   77.7019
    Channels
  • Stereo
    Sampling Rate
  • 48kHz
    Bit Depth
  • 16-bit
    Recorders
  • SONY TCD-D8
    Microphones
  • Sennheiser MKH 40
  • Sennheiser MKH 50
  • Sennheiser MKH 30
    Accessories
    Equipment Note
  • Decoded MS stereo, subjects 1-3, 5-6. Split track with MKH50/40, subject 4.

Show: Geography of Heaven: India
Log of DAT #: 8
Engineer: Flawn Williams
Date:November 2003

DAT 08:
Starts MS, then switches to 50/40 split and back to MS.
02 00000 Weds morning Nov 5, Still atop roof of Raoul's temple, more distant river and city ambis from rooftop, then Nandan arrives, we discuss logistics.
02 02720 split track MKH50/40: first interview with Goswami Nandan on rooftop. Stops then resumes briefly at 05250. Ends by 05300.
05 05320 back to MS miking for boating party ambis and descend. Visit Sanskrit school down in building, get primer on building materials. Quiet walk through alleys back into town, head for brunch. 06 15100 backannounce slate at streetside restaurant, and tape.

DAT 08: Starts MS, then switches to 50/40 split and back to MS.
00000 FW slates tape Weds late morning Nov 5, Still atop roof of Raoul's temple. Handling noise, resetting levels, intermittent left track, clears
00220 ***** more distant city ambis from rooftop, kids playing ball in alley, music, active parrots
00440 handling noise, FW getting a drink of water
00555 more ambi from rooftop, parrots in left channel
00655 ***** good close parrots, several squawks nearby with others distant, music and kids in distance too
00830 handling noise, moving on roof
00940 ***** parrots and distant music
01100 ***** good sustained mid distant parrot calls, others respond, pigeons too
01205 ***** more good parrots; new distant music starts up
01300 ***** more good parrots, some quite close and agitated
01520 handling noise, change position
01615 rooftop ambi: back to river side of building
01650 raise gain for ambi. Rumbly, very distant
01740 one monkey squall mid distant
01755 ***** handling noise, change position to aim down from rooftop at riverside walkway. Agitated monkeys fairly close in rumbly ambiance. Distant dog barks, man's speaking voice, singing kid, bells
01950 handling noise, brief, then ambi continues
02020 water splashing sounds in distance, recorded music, voices
02120 Goswami Nandan arrives, he and Raoul discuss logistics.
2720 split track MKH50/40: first interview with Goswami Nandan on rooftop. Stops then resumes briefly at 05250. Ends by 05300.

(JR LOGGING BEGINS)

(27:20) AC: So first of all let me tell you a little bit about myself. (Nandan: Yes please). We are American journalists, radio journalists, we work for a non-commercial network in the United States called National Public Radio. There are millions of listeners in our country to our program. People, many academics and teachers, and writers but also ordinary people listen. We¿ve been interested for some time in doing a stories about belief and especially we have an idea, we work on a series that Carolyn produces with National Geographic, so these are programs both from National Geographic and National Public Radio, and we¿ve been working on a series of stories about afterlife beliefs, how people feel about the afterlife, how their ideas about the afterlife are similar, how they are different, how they guide people in their daily lives. In talking to friends and people that we talk to about developing stories, many people we talked to were very enthusiastic about Vrindavan, and said you really you must go here.

(28:34) Nd: So then, now I¿d like to make some short introduction about Vrindhavan¿

(28:40) AC: Yes, alright, but if you would please begin by saying who you are and how we should identify you.

(28:47) ND:¿Ok, just for example please don¿t record it, I¿m Nandan Swami from Vrindavan, or something like that? (AC: yes, yes) Enough? I also, I would like to mention my temple, (AC: That¿s fine), or the temple I belong to. (AC: Good, yes.)

(29:07) AC: However you, what ever you would like us to say about you to explain your role in the community, that¿s fine. You just say how you, how we, because truly we are strangers here, and most of the people, when you think about our audience, remember most of the people ah in in our audience for who we¿re broadcasting to which is a general interest audience in the United States they are not very familiar with the beliefs of Krishna and the town of Krishna. So, but go ahead so first just say how you would like us to identify you.

(29:46) Nd: So, Namasday (sp) to all of you. I am Nandan Swami from Vrindavan, Gopinat Goriyanat (sp). So now I would like to give a short introduction on holy land Vrindavan. Now we are in Vrindavan, the holy land of Braj, which is considered highly regarded by the devotees here as the land of transcendental love of Divine Couple Radha Krishna, the embodiments of all eternal truth, consciousness, beauty and ecstasy. In north Indian state of Utherodis, 85 miles south of New Dehli lies this pastoral area of land which, a specific region of which is called Vrindavan. Deeply attracted by its inner spiritual glory, beauty, potency, the many devotees and other theistic (sp) pious people from different parts of India and world from different spiritual traditions, cultures, beliefs, have continued to come over here for pilgrimage since long inspired to seriously be engaged in spiritual practices. They just started living over here, along side the local residents and established astramas (sp), temples, sanctuaries, what ever you call, in order to continue their holy practices in a more organized manner, thereby turning this whole land into a city of temples. The derivative meanings of Vrindavan is, you know the, holy land of groves of tulasi (sp)plants. Let me just explain a little bit more. Vrinda means the tulasi plant, a plant of auspiciousness, van means grove or forest, so all together, Vrindavan means land filled with tulasi groves. With the plant of auspiciousness.

(32:35) AC: Are these trees or bushes or small plants?

(32:37) Nd: No, plants, small plants. The subtle magnetic influence and wonderful medicinal property of this tulasi plant is actually recognized by modern medical science also by Aryuveda, by ancient Indian sages, it simply spreads some natural auspiciousness and blessings in these surroundings. Actually, devotees believe that god is Tulasi who from transcendental plane made his appearance on this earth in the form of this holy plant.

(33:28) AC: God is in the form of a plant?

(33:29) Nd: Yay. (laughs) Some theistic beliefs of the devotees. You know, besides, I would like to mention, the kind of Vrindavan we are now seeing today, the dry and dusty, is totally unlike the Vrindavan, beautiful Vrindavan found in the past. In other words, in past, Vrindavan looked simply gorgeous, with its own natural beauty, this land was full of beautiful fragrant flowers, trees, birds, River Jumuna (sp), Hill Goverdana (sp).

(34:20) AC: The river jumuna this is the holy river here?
(34:33) Nd: Yes, this River Jumuna, yes.

(34:37) AC: But when you talk about that kind of Vrindavan, when I walk around Vrindavan now, I see that there are still beautiful buildings, but the streets there is a lot of trash and the river it does not look very clean.

(34:43) Nd: Oh, that is right, we are sorry for it, and also some (?) comedy is going to be formed soon. The local residents here combined with other devotees trying to take an appropriate step.

(35:04) AC: An action committee?

(35:05) Nd: An action committee, yay, to keep everything clean, and also clean the jumuna river and all parts, so it is just waiting to be implemented, a decision is waiting to be implemented in practice. So, we are not pessimistic, we are optimistic about again making this whole holy land Vrindavan very clean and beautiful.

(35:45) AC: You know this is not just a problem for Vrindavan, this is a problem all over the world. All the things that we create, they pile up around us and soon they overwhelm us.

(35:59) Nd: (mumbles something) ¿you know much of the past beauty is not destroyed, due to two reasons. One, due to some (?) and misuse of some part of the local people.

(36:14) AC: Local people make some problems.

(36:17) Nd: Also, people coming from outside for the pilgrimage, because they are not always aware of how to have a pilgrimage tour on this Vrindavan land and maintain cleanliness.

(36:31) AC: And there are, this is not really a very big community in town, it is fairly small, and you get a lot of people coming here.

(36:40) Nd: That¿s right, people from all different faiths and spiritual cultures, traditions¿

(36:46) Do you know how many visitors a year come here, in one year?

(36:51) Nd: Over, over a couple of Lags at least. Couple of lags, you know?

(37:00) AC: Lags?

(37:00) Nd: Lags mean hundred thousand, one lag equal is equal to 100,000. So, At least two lags, rather more, because people continue to come over here from all different parts of India, and today also world, so¿

(37:25) Tell me, this is the, this is the area of Krishna. For an outsider, myself, new to your faith, there seem to be so many, so many gods who are worshipped, where is where is Krishna in this?

(37:52) Nd: Krishna is considered to the supreme personality of God Head, like I mentioned before, the embodiments of eternal truth, beauty and bliss. And other demigods, according to the beliefs of the local residents and devotees and the are the great devotees of that supreme and beautiful lord Krishna. In other words they are just like incarnations of the supreme absolute beautiful one¿

(38:29) AC: Who is Krishna¿

(38:30) Nd:¿ is Krishna. And also I should mention the counterpart of Krishna, or side by side, our supreme goddess is Sivote Radherrani (sp). (AC: Radherrani) In short, Radha. (AC: Radha) She is also considered to be the embodiment or personification of all spiritual bliss and fulfillment. Actually, the local residents are so devoted and loving towards Radha, their divine goddess, goddess of heart, so naturally Radha is so beloved to all the devotees, local people, and here you may have marked, you may have, ah, well you may have marked that when people address each other, they address by saying Radhe, Radhe. It¿s a way of spiritual address to each other. Huh? Radhe.

(39:54) AC: I was just with some women across the river who were bathing, and I didn¿t understand what they were saying, but they turned to me and said Radhe Radhe.

(40:02) Nd: That¿s right. Exactly.

(40:03) AC: And I I didn¿t know what to say to them so I turned back and said Radhe Radhe.

(40:06) Nd: Yes¿Radhe or Heyradhe.

(40:10) Hey Radhe. Tell me something. There are may faiths and beliefs around the world, but I haven¿t been to, talked to believers in any place where people talk so much about bliss and happiness. Why is that?

(40:33) Nd: Because, naturally, everyone is looking for bliss and happiness in life, and the people from all around India and abroad today, are coming over here is search of that divine bliss and happiness, and this holy land of Braj, specifically this spiritual center of Vrindavan, gives them some thing, inspires them to feel happy here, to derive some spiritual happiness.

(41:05) AC: And could you explain what that is why that is?

(41:09) As people come here, they come here with different kinds of intentions, some of them come here for healing their, you know emotional or physical illness, some of them want wealth or material prosperity, but some of them also want just exclusively want spiritual development, the spiritual bliss of life, you know, and the situation or atmosphere of this holy land is such that it is filled with some higher spiritual consciousness, and an inner spiritual consciousness which is full of devotional love of Radha Krishna, so that devotional love of Radha Krishna has some great taste in it and people can feel it, so that is how they fell blessed and happy, in other words when they come over they believe they have come to the holy land, land of divine couple, embodiments of all bliss, beauty. Ah, so they feel sheltered.

(42:33) AC: Centered?

(42:34) Nd: Sheltered. Sheltered? (FW off mic: sheltered.)

(42:37) AC: Sheltered (Nd: Yes) Sheltered¿(42:43) Is this a holy land? Is this¿?

(42:46) Nd: Yes, this is the holy land of Braj.

(42:49) AC: Is this heaven?

(42:53) Nd: By inner nature it is considered heaven. But at soon as we can again bring back its past beauty all over this land then it will be heaven, in and out. (laughs) Besides I would like to mention another point in relation to how people feel blissier. There are many shadows you can find all around.

(43:23) AC: Many¿?

(43:23) Nd: Many Shadoes (sp) Indian saints or sages¿who engage in holy practices here, so as engaging in their spiritual practices, through that, Shadohna (sp) we call shadohna, through that holy practice they can attain certain kind of peace and blissfulness at heart. What cannot be realized, just in an external, normal way, one needs to be engaged in certain, through certain process of Shadohna to feel that higher spiritual happiness or bliss.

(44:15) AC: You need to engage through the teachers and the saints in order to feel the bliss?

(44:22) Nd: Yes, yes.

(44:23) AC: Are you a teacher?

(44:26) Nd: Yes, eh kind of.

(44:28) AC: Well I¿m new here, this is my first day waking up in Vrindavan and I¿m going to go here and ask people about a particular part of their lives which is their belief in the afterlife, what will happen to us.

(44:43) Nd: We are indeed very happy to be able to welcome all of you in this holy land (AC: thank you) Vrindavan. And, yes, um¿

(44:53) AC: I just wonder, if you have any advice for me as I¿m going around in the next few days as I¿m going around for the next three or four days, what should I ask people and how should I approach them to try to learn.

(45:05) Nd: To learn their cultures beliefs, practices, all this?

(45:12) AC: And what they think about the afterlife¿

(45:16) Nd: After death you said?

(45:17) AC: Yes. The Afterlife?

(45:18) Nd: Afterlife¿Well, you can simply approach the local people here with the holy slogan Radhe Radhe, then they will also tell you back Radhe Radhe. Then of course you have to speak them something, you are going to speak in English then it will be translated into local language Hindi, and it depends upon your question how they reply. So you can put this sort of questions, I¿m just giving you some samples of questions what you can put before the local people. So, please tell me about your spiritual culture, belief, how you practice your devotional life in relation to divine couple Radha Krishna. We have come to know that the Radha and Krishna are so so beloved to all of you, so how do you take them in your life, how do you lovingly worship them, how have you become one with their divine consciousness of transcendental love. So, it can be your first question. Secondly, how you consider this holy land of Braj, which is (?) land, what is your feelings, overall feelings about this whole land. How would you consider the holy river Jumuna or hill Goverdana as the contributing factors in your spiritual life or normal day to day life. And lastly, why you are in so much devotion to Radha and Krishna. This way, just some samples there can be other questions also.

(47:49) AC: If you would do one more thing for me please I should have asked you to do this at the beginning and please remind me to do this at the beginning of each interviews. Because we are from a culture which is unfamiliar with many names here, could I ask you to spell your name and the name of your temple, because the person who is transcribing all of these interviews, will want to get the proper spelling we want to get the proper spelling on everything and it is not immediately apparent to us.

(48:16) Ok. So my name is Nandan Swami. The spelling is N-A-N-D-A-N. Next swami. S-W-A-M-I. I am from Gopinath Gaudiyamath. I spell G-O-P-I-N-A-T-H- the Gaudiya G-A-U-D-I-Y-A. Next, Math. M-A-T-H. And, also there is another identity of the same temple, called Dowgi Mondi.

(49:04) AC: ..That is the name of the temple (Nd: yes) Does Math mean temple?

(49:07) Nd: Yes. So, in other words it¿s also called Old Dowgi Temple (AC: Old¿) Because we acquired one very old temple. More than 250 years old, you know, when you go to visit you can see, a beautiful temple. So spell: Old- O-L-D Old. Dauji. D-A-U-J-I. Temple. T-E-M-P-L-E. (AC: Excellent). Vrindavan. V-R-I-N-D-A-V-A-N. Yes.

(49:53) AC: Thank you Swami.

(49:55) Nd: Oh, welcome. Pleased to have talks with you. (AC: Thank you very much.) Ambi birds chirping¿sounds of people in background. (AC: If I might just take your picture over here¿even on the radio we need pictures, doesn¿t make sense, but¿Flawn are you shut down, I just want to ask him one more thing¿) They are talking about taking a picture¿Carolyn is talking to Flawn about the Sahara.

Flawn: Resuming, Alex.

(52:46) AC: I hope that at the end of our journey here in Vrindavan I can come and see you again.

(52:51) Nd: Certainly. That would be so happy for me and for all of us. (AC: Thank you) Most welcome.

(END JR LOGGING)

05320 back to MS miking slate more ambis
05345 ***** distant boating party (singing women) on river from rooftop, dogs bark, close parrots, water splash sound, Radhe Radhe from women on boat, rowing clunks of oars,
05600 some kind of percussive sound like pile driver, echoes off buildings
05705 change levels, Nandan leaves roof after exchanging pleasantries
05800 we pack up and prepare to descend.
10030 walking downstairs through tight stairwell, Raoul talks about
Sanskrit school
10200 school teacher talks to students in courtyard school
10340 AC invites CJ and FW to look out balcony, AC voice continues in background, then AC closes in to do a standup.

10430 AC: This is lime plaster, it's amazing. Very smooth, this plaster will¿ (restart) This wall, they've come in and partly restored this temple wall. This is a lime plaster wall. Raoul was telling me it's very complex to even figure out how to make this, it involves camels walking in circles trampling the lime until it turns into powder, it's mixed together to make this plaster. It will fully harden in 100 years, and it will endure for hundreds and hundreds of years beyond that.
(AC runs his hands on wall, nice smooth sound.) It's smooth, you can see little fissures in it, where they've patched cracks in the old wall. It feels very smooth, very solid now. But Raoul says it's a very painstaking process to go about rebuilding an old building like this, much more difficult than making a new building. (AC pauses, voices of schoolroom in background.) Overhead there's a kind of an archway here, made of GREAT pieces of this red sandstone that actually comes from a place quite a ways away. Sandstone like this isn't mined here locally, Raoul thinks they brought it up the river hundreds of years ago when the kings from Rajasthan were building temples and palaces here. I bet that piece above us weighs at least a thousand pounds. (schoolroom ambi voices follows)
10700 more voices of schoolroom teacher and students. Raoul Ids as Sanskrit school. RG: Sanskrit, as you probably know, is the mother of all languages, linguistically.
10750 KD points out features.

RG: Noam Chomsky is a big Sanskrit fan.

10830 RG: The students in this school are learning Sanskrit, the ancient language of India, which is considered by linguists the mother of all languages.

So it's a process of many years to master the language in spoken as well as written form, because each syllable and each symbol has great meaning and can be used in different ways. And there's a certain meter to the language. When it's spoken, in its original sense, it's actually sung. Everything in Sanskrit is actually sung and it's very beautiful.

As we walk around Vrindavan sometimes we'll be hearing different Sankrit
Chants and verses, and those are being sung. (more class voices ambi follows.)

10945 RG: (starts offmike) and beneath the temple is a big chamber room where it's very cool. And the reason you see so much stone in some of these larger temples is, they have these inner rooms, that because the walls are so thick, they keep it very cool, and they would use a type of fan with water, in the hot season it can get over a hundred degrees here, sometimes a hundred and ten. So you need someplace to stay cool. So the kings built these large chambers where you would stay cool in the summer season. And you'll see from all the ceilings hooks embedded into the stone, and those hooks are rings are where they would run big fans, or do decorations¿this temple originally had a fountain on the roof, which came down into the middle here, and there are places where that fountain can be restored. So running water was also a common element in a temple like this.

11105 AC: Now this is¿sandstone?

RG: Yes, this is a different shade. That red sandstone seems to be a little harder, and this yellow sandstone can be carved a little bit easier. But it's also extremely hard.

AC: All the work that we see on the stone, this is all carving, it's not plaster or ¿

RG: Yes. 100% carved by hand.

AC: It's incredible, every inch of this surface almost is covered with carvings.

RG: That's correct. Yeah, you see¿beautiful beautiful stonework. Mostly these artisans come from Rajasthan, a desert area where there's a lot of this type of stone. But it's a tradition there to carve the stone, especially for the temple of the Lord, and to make it very beautiful. And you see in different parts of India, a lot of the philosophy of that particular place will be actually either carved, painted, or in some form be right on the walls or the exterior of the temple.

AC: A side question, have you photographed this extensively?

RG: Yes.

AC: How long would it have taken them to build a place like this? And in its time, what kind of a building was this?

11250 RG: Well, this was¿this would have been built¿I would imagine over at least fifty years, and¿

(Celphone rings in background)

AC: That's the Radio Expeditions producer's celphone we're listening to¿.

RG: I really don't know, also, but¿these temples were built by families of maharajahs, so it's quite conceivable that the father would started it and the son would have finished it. And I think with regard to construction in the past a much longer term view was taken, especially in regard to temples. Because temples were places that were meant to exist for generations and generations and generations. So truly that type of thought and consciousness, which we see so absent sometimes in the world today, especially in building and in development, is to think about how it's going to be received and cared for and integrated in future generations.

(FW question offmike)

11420 ***** RG: Well, one of the very unique things about Vrindavan is that all of the temples here have presiding deities, and those deities legally are considered to be the landholders. This particular temple trust belongs to a particular deity, so if you look at the deed for the building, the owner's a deity. And the whole market in Vrindavan that you go through, all those shopkeepers? All of them are renting, or leasing, from one of the principal deities in the town. In essence, most of the city is actually owned by God, through these deity forms which he's taken.

AC: But who do they pay rent to?

RG: To the temple where that deity is being worshipped. And the money is utilized to maintain that temple, and continue the worship. (pause, courtyard ambi shows through). I've met people in the West who are trying to achieve a similar thing in our legal system, and have never been able to figure out how to deed a property to God through posterity. There's no good legal formula for that there. But here, this is a system that's been existing for hundreds of years.

AC: So when you acquired this building for your foundation, you had to buy it from God?

RG: We had to purchase it basically, the save-ite-ship. Which means, I would call it a caretakership. So we're¿the building still belongs to a particular deity, but we're¿we have the responsibility of the caretakership. Which is similar to ownership¿but the actual ownership is that deity.

AC: And what is the name of the deity here?

RG: Radha Raman. Which is the temple where we went last night.

11650 AC: The first one or the second one?

RG: The second one.

AC: OK, great, thank you. (walks off.)

11700 ambiance in inner courtyard. Birds overhead, voices.
11930 ***** switch out high pass filter, ambi continues, good birds and voices
12045 moving, handling noise, KD clears her throat, KD and CJ chat
12230 RG and AC look at bricks
12250 ***** clang of metal gate as we go out the back side of the temple
12330 children's voices in alley, one very close, AC and RG in background

12420 RG: The original deity for this temple was moved and went to another place. So right now this building is under the protection of the Archeological Survey of India, which is the branch of the government that protects national monuments and historical buildings. But in contrast to the other temples that are equally as old, because there's no worship going on here, it's just closed up and basically sitting here and, not really open, it's being preserved.

Ranchor Prime (RP): Yeah, looks like it's had some work done on it¿all the plants growing out the sides have been cleared, and the mortar's been filled.

FW: One of the ones we were at yesterday, there was a fellow with what seemed like a toothbrush?

RG: Yes, you have to use a toothbrush. We had to do that work on this building to clean the stone, used a lot of toothbrushes. It took almost a year just to clean the stone that we went in. It's a long process. (Chuckles.)

12550 ***** ambi outside temple, in alley, gate clangs in distance, footsteps, kids voices, dog barking
12630 ***** close dog in isolation, then pumping and water sound, clapping hands to shoo dog, more pumping and water spills out
12730 ***** walking, sound of one person's clogs on cobblestones, "haribo! Haribo!"
12810 ***** crying baby, brief burst of recorded music, then quiet walk again
12855 agitated man's voice passes us, then talks to us upclose. God is everywhere! Everywhere is my God! I receive the God, but I had given my mind. There is only one God. (interrupted by passing motorbike.) Walks off again.
13030 confer about heading for lunch
13050 ***** gentle stationary street ambi, distant bell, footsteps, kids voices
13135 kid shouts Hallo into mike
13220 ***** clean close start motorbike, pulls away, birds and voices remain
13310 insistent car horn passes
13320 handling noise, into rickshaw, bumping along, bells
13430 ***** rattley roof of rickshaw, occasional bells and horn

13500 AC standup: This street that we're going down in a rickshaw it's paved, looks like it was paved a long time ago, it's pretty narrow, you certainly couldn't get two cars down it though one can kind of squeeze through. There are shops on either side, old storefronts, I would guess they're sixty, seventy years old¿brick buildings with¿(car horn loudly passes) ¿. There are storefronts on either side¿I would guess they're buildings that are about a hundred years old, most of them plaster over brick, a couple of stories, the entranceways are up a couple of feet above the height of the of the roadway so you have to step up to them, and I'm guessing this place floods pretty regularly. There are open sewers along in front of the¿in front of the storefronts, and just a little bit cut below the street level like gutters. All along here there are people walking¿there are these motor scooters going by¿there are cows wandering¿bells, worshippers¿it's chaotic, but it's just completely full of life.

13640 ambi follows

13655 AC: The stores are offering¿well, here's one that's full of children's clothing¿there's another that's kind of a general market, it's got Coca Cola, water, candies, all kinds of things (loud music nearby makes this hard to hear) Here's a kind of a bazaar area we're going through, little restaurant with clay pots out in front for drinking tea¿..shops selling figures of various deities¿places to eat¿a lot of kind of posters and artwork um featuring Krishna and Radha.

13740 ambi follows

13755 AC: Here comes a cart¿coming toward us¿it's pulled by a camel. (Laughs) The traffic jams here are very catholic. You can run into anything.

13805 ambi follows: rickshaw bounce, horn beeps

13830 AC: We're going along in a rickshaw. A car has just passed us. This rickshaw is¿well I guess it's technology that is at least a hundred years old. Because it's a bicycle rickshaw ¿.( Flawn pipes up,: Ranchor Prime says the bike rickshaw is actually a fairly recent design from a Cambridge University tech team.)

13920 AC: Here we go past a cart, that's being loaded with wood, and it's pulled by a camel. Even in the Sahara Desert, I never saw a camel pulling a kind of cart like a bullock cart¿there's no bullock, it's a camel.

13950 ***** ambi follows: rattley rickshaw, horn beep passes, bike bells

14220 ***** short stretch of street ambi with no rickshaw rattle, then restart rickshaw rolling. Pass good recorded music, horns. Some good rattles in isolation around 14430. Someone blows a whistle. Someone shouts. Passing a noisy rolling cart. More good isolated bumpy rickshaw sound. Dopplering bike bell.

14620 ***** Pass animal cart with bells on; bike bell on our rickshaw. Inisitent horns, bells, wimpy buzzer.

14750 quieter stretch of road, rickshaw bumps, distant amplified preachy voice.
14900 off rickshaws, KD, RG and CJ confer offmike. Stable street ambi.
15020 enter restaurant, headed for second floor table, slightly hollow general ambi.
06 15145 FW backannounce slate at streetside restaurant, and tape.

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