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Includes intermittent conversations.  

NPR/NGS Radio Expeditions
10 Sep 2003

    Geography
  • Myanmar
    Shan
    Locality
  • Mong La; Wildlife Market
    Latitude/Longitude
  • 21.6779   100.03934
    Channels
  • Stereo
    Sampling Rate
  • 48kHz
    Bit Depth
  • 16-bit
    Recorders
    Microphones
  • Sennheiser MKH 40
  • Sennheiser MKH 30
    Accessories
    Equipment Note
  • Decoded MS stereo

Show: Thailand Wildlife Trade
Log of DAT # 7, Myanmar Wildlife Market
Engineer: Charles Thompson, recorded in MS
Date: September 10, 2003

ok=okay
g=good
vg=very good
ng=not good

:22
Michael testing equipment ng

1:15
silence ng

3:56
MS: Okay now I have level. Showtime! (over ambi: hum of motor) g

4:01
hum of motor g

4:06
Ambi: pulling zipper (hum continues) ok

4:31
Ambi: van door slides open g

4:34
MS: And I hate you because your thing has worked already. Even if we don't get anything you've got what you need. g

4:40
Ambi: Hum of motor, muffled voices. ng

4:47
Ambi: Van door closes ok

4:49
Ambi: Motor hum

4:54
Ambi: Motor louder, closer FX ok

4:56
MS: Carolyn knows where my hate is really directed and she won't tell anyone. Will you Carolyn?

5:06
Ambi: Zipper (static) ng

5:20
CJ: Be better this time? Cause I get to be arrested and make (something). And you like tension, right?

5:32
MS: You know what? There's enough f***king tension in my life, I don't need anymore.

5:36
Ambi: Birds? ¿ squeaking. Muffled shouts and conversations. ok

5:44
MS: Come on, come, come, come, come, come. Here's the problem, seriously. It was the batteries. But because we have these new batteries in and because they're Chinese batteries, you know how long they last. Okay? There not Duracells.

5:57
Ambi: Banging ok

6:00
Ambi: Truck engine ng

6:05
CJ: Okay ...So I kept mine.

MS: You kept yours?

CJ: Yeah, and I'll just say, we think we can go back. Just play dumb, I can do it.

MS I gave ...but how did you keep yours and get your passport back.

6:20
Children talking. Loud adult conversations. Shouting. Ok

6:32
MS: Hi

6:36
Man speaks in Burmese w/ woman. vg

6:41
Horn beeps FX vg

6:42
Loud conversations continue vg

6:48
MS: We just had lunch, now we're going back.

6:50
Man speaks w/ woman in Burmese vg

7:05
Phone rings

7:06
MS: Yeah. I have to get another one. Right. Okay. Thank You.

7:11
Walking away. Phone ringing fades, as do conversations.

7:14
Ambi: Wind in mic

7:22
Ambi: Engine running.

7:36
Ambi: Wind and engine noise continues.ng

7:51
Ambi: footsteps and wind ok/ng

7:56
Ambi: engine and more wind ng

8:01
male voice and child voice and more wind ok

8:14
Engine and wind FX

8:19
Music and wind ng

8:23
Radio plays

8:25
baby cries FX

8:28
Kid singing w/ radio ok

8:36
Music continues. Vehicle motors by FX ok

8:42
Music fades, more wind ng

8:55
Traffic passing g

9:16
MS: Hello, I'm back. Do I have to pay again, or no?

No.

No? It's okay? Okay ...okay.

9:25
Ambi: Man and woman speaking Burmese. Coin? Clinks.

9:32
Ambi: Traffic noises (something big, maybe a bus)

9:40
Ambi: Music in background

9:50
MS: Thank you.

9:52
Coins clinking.
9:53
Ambi: Traffic passes outside
MS: Ooh, James Bond. Sean Connery, the best James Bond.

10:10
Ambi: Traffic and wind ok

10:25
Ambi: Strong wind ng

10:31
Unidentified Man speaks in Burmese

10:35
Man: Excuse me. Hello? What country are you from?

MS: U.S.

Man: U.S. Speaks in Burmese again.

10:55
Ambi: Hum and voices in background

11:10
Man: Your name.

11:20
Ambi: Music plays vg

11:29
Ambi: Music ends. Traffic and nearby conversations in Burmese. vg

11:36
MS: Tell me really quickly, the woman ...The two skins that the woman had, those were both spotted ...spotted leopard. vg

Translator: Yeah

(Ambi: Rock music plays)

MS: Okay. I want to do the woman first again and then go to another place. You don't? Okay, it's just ...I know we got something there. Okay, find another place first then and then we'll go to the woman. ok

12:07
Ambi: Rock music ends ok

12:09
Ambi: New music starts, sounds of walking. ok

13:21
Ambi: Female voice and laughter ok

13:35
Ambi: Motor in distance and then close up ok

13:45
Ambi: More footsteps and American music (era 1940s or 50s?) wind ok

14:20
Ambi: Clear voice speaks, other voices in background ok

14:25
Ambi: Horn beeps FX vg

14:26
Ambi: Soft music and child shouts

14:41
Motor close by

14:46
Motor passes

15:01
Ambi: Faint music (Tracy Chapman Fast Car) and motors passing vg

15:42
Ambi:
Music very loud as car passes

15:56
Ambi: Squeaking FX. Conversations in background

16:17
Burmese voice speaking to MS

16:23
MS: Okay now, I've come back and I've come back to look at this one again. Tell me again what this one is ¿cause you know I like it. ¿Cause I've tried to get you down on the price already. vg

16:34
Translator asks question. vg

16:40
Vendor: Responds in Burmese

16:51
Translator: She says it's clouded leopard and it's usually two-thousand but she give you discount, two hundred discount. So it's one thousand-eight hundred. vg

17:03
MS: And ...would I have a problem if I tried to bring this back to Bangkok? vg

17:10
Translator asks question vg

17:13
Vendor: Responds in Burmese

17:27
Translator: She said, ¿if only one it's fine. You can get it. You can like, go by plane and pack it in your backpack. It's fine. It's very small.' vg

17:37
Vendor: Something quick in Burmese

17:40
MS: Right, but as my wife says, what if I get caught with this. This is not legal is it? vg

17:47
Translator laughs and asks question vg

17:53
Vendor: Responds in Burmese

18:02
Translator: She said, ¿It's not illegal if you take only one. It's not. The custom will not angry at you. You can,' she said. That's what she said, but I don't know. vg

18:17
MS: Right. But earlier you told me it was easier, it was safer, to take one of these tiger teeth and not this. I don't want to get in trouble! vg

18:27
Translator laughs then speaks to vendor vg

18:37
Translator and vendor a little back and forth. vg

18:41
Vendor: In Burmese

18:51
Translator: She said, ¿you can buy anything but if you buy only one or two, it's no problem.' vg

19:03
MS: And you say one thousand-eight hundred is your best price on this. Vg

19:08
Translator asks questions

19:14
Vendor: one word vg

19:15
Translator: ¿Yeah,' she said. vg
*From this point on, it's all vg*
19:16
MS: Okay. And this is not tiger penis but this is actually the clouded leopard penis, is that correct?

19:25
Translator and vendor back and forth

19:29
Translator: Yeah she said it's clouded leopard.

19:32
MS: And that's three hundred baht, you said.

19:36
Translator asks question

19:37
Vendor: Answers in Burmese

19:43
Translator: She said it's three hundred baht but if you want to buy the skin, tiger skin and penis, she can give you two thousand baht. Like one hundred ...

19:53
MS: One hundred discount if I buy both

Vendor: Speaking in Burmese at the same time.

20:03
Translator: She can give you like, this three hundred. Four hundred off the tiger tooth. And whole of this two thousand-four hundred baht.

20:19
MS: Two thousand-four hundred. Now these skulls you have here, these you said ...These skulls you have here what are these?

20:29
Translator asks question

20:30
Vendor: Answers in Burmese

20:31
Translator: Monkey.

20:32
Vendor: Monkey

20:36
MS: So that would not be a problem? That's not illegal, I could take that back?

20:40
Translator asks question

20:45
Vendor: Answers in Burmese

20:48
Translator: Yeah she says, ¿No problem.'

20:50
MS: So these are the problem, not this?

20:53
Translator asks question

20:54
Vendor: Answers in Burmese

20:58
Translator: She said for the skin, if only one, no problem.

21:01
MS: Well but what if I bought two. What if I bought the nicer one that was there, too? The one that was two thousand-five hundred baht earlier.

21:07
Translator asks question. Back and forth with vendor.

21:22
Translator: She said one person, one skin is fine. But two you might get in trouble.

21:30
MS: If I wanted to buy more than one. If I wanted to buy two or three, how would I get them across?

21:38
Translator asks question.

21:43
Vendor: Answers in Burmese

21:46
Translator: She said, it will have somebody take it for you. Take it across the border for you.

21:53
Vendor: Speaks in Burmese

21:56
Translator: If only one you take it with you. But if you want to buy two or three she will find somebody to take it across the border for you.

22:07
MS: Okay. And if I buy two or three does the price come down?
22:11
Translator asks question

22:14
Vendor: One word answer

22:19
MS: Okay. Alright let me think about it. I'm going to go over to the other stall. I saw one over there that I liked as well.

22:26
Translator speaks to vendor

22:29
Vendor: Responds in Burmese

22:32
Translator: She said she has a big one if you want.

22:36
MS: Where? Where? Yeah okay, let's see.

22:41
Translator: She said wait here and she will come bring it to show you.

22:50
MS: This better be working this time.

22:53
Ambi: Cars and footsteps

23:09
Carolyn: I bought postcards, dear.

23:16
Ambi: Car horn FX

23:27
Ambi: Truck passes

23:34
Ambi: Containers being opened ng

23:44
Ambi: Container still being opened vg
24:01
MS: These are much larger

24:04
Vendor: Answers in Burmese Ambi: Still opening container

24:09
Translator: She said, ¿four thousand baht for the big one.'

24:12
MS: Now what are these are these the same? Are these also clouded leopard or are these different?

Vendor: Speaking at the same time (Starting 24:15)

24:16
Translator: Yeah, it also is the same.

24:18
MS: Also clouded leopard? But these are much nicer than that one?

24:21
Translator asks question?

24:23
Vendor: Answers in Burmese

24:28
Ambi: More shuffling with container

24:31
Translator: She says, ¿This is the big one. With beautiful tail.'

24:35
Ambi: Motor passes

24:38
Ambi: More shuffling. Background conversations. Truck passes.

24:49
Larger truck passes

24:52
Vendor: Speaking Burmese

24:55
Translator: She says this one is three thousand-five hundred and this one is four thousand baht.

25:02
MS: But if I buy more than one then I will get a discount. We will negotiate a better price.

25:08
Translator asks question

25:14
Vendor: Speaking Burmese

25:20
Back and forth between vendor and translator

25:26
Translator: Yes, you will get a discount if you want to buy two of these.

25:32
MS: And then if I want to buy two, that would make it difficult for me to take them across. So you would find somebody to help me take them across.

25:40
Translator asks question

25:45
Vendor: Speaking Burmese

25:48
Translator: Yeah, yeah, she will find somebody to like, carry this in for you.

25:54
MS: And I would pick it up on the other side.

25:57
Translator asks question

25:59
Vendor: Speaking Burmese

26:12
Translator: Yeah if you tell her the destination.

26:17
Vendor interrupts in Burmese

26:21
Translator: If you tell her that where you want to meet the guy, she will tell the guy and the guy will like, meet you up there.

26:32
MS: And how long would that take?

26:34
Translator asks question

26:37
Vendor: Responds in Burmese

26:39
Translator: Half an hour.

26:40
MS: Half an hour. Oh. So we could do it today. No problem.

26:42
Translator repeats

26:44
Vendor: Responds in Burmese

26:47
Translator: Yes.

26:48
MS: Okay. This one's very beautiful. Let me um, let me go back to my friend who I met earlier and then I'll ...over here ...and then we'll see.

26:56
Translator repeats

27:04
Vendor: In Burmese back and forth with translator

27:13
Ambi: Sounds of traffic and wind

27:27
Ambi: Loud vehicle passes

27:31
MS: Burmese Greeting

27:36
Male Vendor: I have many hair, you try (?) You want discount, no problem. You another shop smaller.

27:43
MS: You've seen me over there, you think her shop is smaller?

27:46
Male Vendor: Yes

27:47
MS: You say you have a better choice.

27:48
Male Vendor: Oh, many hairs, you try. How many? Forty pieces, fifty pieces. Many

27:56
MS: Forty pieces or fifty pieces you could provide, no problem?

27:59
Male Vendor: No problem.

28:02
Male Vendor: You like this? Spotted.

28:08
MS: This is a spotted leopard?

28:10
Male Vendor: Yes, spotted. Speaking Burmese.

28:24
Ambi: Vehicle passes, items are moved around.

28:33
MS: Spotted leopard is different from clouded leopard?

28:36
Different ...yes.
28:37
MS: Different, this is different.

28:40
Male Vendor: Speaking Burmese

28:46
MS: But there's a problem, me getting it across the border, yes?

28:50
Male Vendor: Laughs. No problem, no problem. This you are packing. You are people you are packing, taking your bag inside, no problem. No carry. You afraid, no problem. You are send ... You send other men. You other country, Mae Sai (sp?), okay. You stay ...

29:20
MS: You would have someone in Mae Sai (sp?) on the Thai side meet me there with this so I would not have to carry it.

29:28
Male Vendor: Yes

29:29
MS: Because it is illegal. I would get in trouble, yes?

29:33
Male Vendor: Trouble

Yeah

Yes. Laughs

29:35
MS: So if I wanted to buy three or four of these here at this shop. I could buy them from you and you would have someone meet me on the other side with the skins. Is that right?

29:48
Male Vendor: How many (something)?

29:50
MS: Well three or four pieces, that's how it would work?

29:53
Male Vendor: Any one? This, another?

29:54
MS: Probably this, this is the nicest.

Male Vendor: Yes

MS: And how much? ...Okay, that's, that's one border. But that's the Thai border. What about getting it back to Delhi, where I live? Is that a problem?

30:11
Male Vendor: No problem.

MS: Delhi customs?

No, no problem.

IGI Airport? No problem?

No problem, no problem.

30:17
Male Vendor: This paper. This packing. This paper. This paper packing. No problem. Your jacket inside.

30:31
MS: Hand carry

Male Vendor: Yes, hand carry.

MS: Okay.

30:35
MS: And what is the fine if you get caught? If I get caught, how much fine? ...Police? Problem. How much fine?

30:47
Male Vendor: Oh no problem, if you ¿

30:49
MS: Jail, prison or just money?

30:51
Male Vendor: Just money

Just money?

Yes. Five hundred baht, three hundred baht, two hundred baht. You pay, no problem.

31:01
MS: And how much would this one be. This spotted leopard here?

31:04
Male Vendor: Okay, this you like? Okay, five thousand baht.

MS: Five thousand baht?

This expensive. This new, expensive.

31:12
MS: so the spotted leopard is more expensive than the clouded leopard?

Yes, yes this expensive.

31:19
MS: Because it's much prettier and there's not as many?

31:22
Male vendor laughs.

31:24
Male Vendor: This you like? How much you pay this? No problem.

31:32
MS: Yes, but you're right, the other one is much nicer.

31:35
Male Vendor: Very beautiful. ... Many have this.

31:46
MS: Okay, let me think about this some more, G. Thank you.

31:49
Male Vendor: How much, how much

Well I'm still a little. I'm still a little ...

How much you pay?

Well I have to talk to the wife. Chuckles

31:58
Male Vendor: The other side you see.

32:00
MS: I saw hers.

How much?

Well hers wasn't as nice as yours and hers was two thousand.

Two thousand.

Uh, for that one. For the clouded one.

Smaller.

Smaller one.

32:10
MS: But she didn't have one of those. She didn't have.

32:13
Male Vendor: You like this on the other side?

32:16
MS: You know what I did like? You know what I did like? I did like this one. What was this one? What is this one here?

32:20
Male Vendor: It's black leopard.

Black leopard.

Yes.

32:29
MS: Right.

This leather very good.

32:35
Ms: Okay, let me find the wife.

32:37
Male Vendor: Because you like, two thousand baht. One thousand-eight hundred baht. No.

One thousand-eight hundred?

Yes.

Okay, let me ask her I'll be back.

33:41
Ambi: Motors and nearby conversation. Female and male. Laughter in background.

34:19
Motor revs FX

34:28
Ambi: Far away conversations.

34:51
Horn honks. FX

34:54
MS: Okay, let's go think about it then.

Whistle FX

We're going to think about it!

35:13
Ambi: American music

35:23
Ambi: Horn honks.

35:47
Ambi: Dishes clatter

35:51
Ambi: Footsteps approaching.

36:03
Vehicle passes.

36:26
Ambi: Child, speaking loudly.

36:46
Ambi: Another vehicle passes.

37:52
Ambi: Music plays,

38:10
Ambi: Female voice

38:11
Ambi: Pop music approaches, louder and louder to 38:31

38:36
Ambi: Conversations

38:47
Ambi: Rock music plays.

39:49
Ambi: Conversations in background

40:07
Ambi: Conversations pass

40:16
Ambi: Motorcycle revs up

40:36
Ambi: Video game music?

40:55
Horn honks FX

41:03
Metal clangs together.

41:13
Unidentified Male: What do you find, sir?

I'm fine, thank you.

41:18
What do you find, sir? Have you been to everywhere?

Pretty much.

Pretty much. And you find ...no furs today?

MS: Not furs

Unidentified Male: From which country?

U.S. ... This morning. I've been here all day.

And you've just been looking around the market?

Yeah, that's fine. No that's okay, thank you.

Music has been playing since 41:35

42:00
Ambi: Car passes, background shouts and footsteps.

42:20
Ambi: Quick friendly shouts

43:00
Ambi: Various conversations

43:37
Ambi: MS buys hat for fifty baht.

45:26
Ambi: Loud music and footsteps

45:39
Ambi: Car door opens.

47:10
Ambi: Knocking on metal.

49:30
Ambi: Really loud truck

49:47
Ambi: child speaking w/ mother.

52:06
MS: Mae Sai(sp?)

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